Passion Comes in Waves
Editorial

THE ISSUE OF TRAVEL

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

There is much to the theory as to why Balinese surfers in particular don’t really travel much. And have never made a splash on the international scene. Excepting, of course, Rizal Tandjung’s Pipeline miracle. But then that was 24 years ago. Sure there are the visa hassles, but alot of people have those. No, it’s more about comfort. Balinese surfers live in the best surf in the world. They also own it. They are also close to family and wealth and friends and culture and the food they love.

Why leave paradise? Let’s face it, there’s a reason 6 million tourists come here. Still, the wonder of travel is there for anyone who gets restless. And that is what this issue is all about. Inspiration to get out there and see all of it. It’s always better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.

So in this issue, we bring you daring adventures from three corners of our world. Alan Van Gysen reports in from Equatorial Guinea, a place hard to find on any map. But then…it always feels good to be lost in the right direction. We also have Pete Frieden reporting in from the roughhousing of the North Shore season.

And in a place that might never exist, a transitory place, International award winning fine arts photographer Ben Thouard brings us to a place that can never be found on any map. Of course, true places never are. The world is a book and those who do not travel read only the same page over and over. We say get out there. If you think adventures are dangerous, try routine. It’s lethal. Live your life by a compass, not a clock. All you need to travel this great blue world is to know that it’s possible.

And remember, if you travel far enough, you’re gonna get a chance to meet yourself.

– Editor –  

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Story

DEEPEST DARKEST JAVA

Although just the mention of the word Java has been enough to send imaginations soaring throughout history, to the modern surfer it holds even more mystery than most imaginations are capable of. With a deadly, rough coast, ship eating waters, volcanic events that alter the very tectonic plates beneath us and over 1000 kilometers of exposed coastline, this 13th largest island in the world remains one of our last unexplored surf zones.

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Portfolio

COSMIC HILDREN



Photographer Everton Luis, Craig Anderson, Bryce Young, Alex Knost and Ozzie Wright, on yet another dream trip to the Mentawai Islands, sat on the aft of the good ship STAR KOAT trying to come up with a different way to photograph the Mentawai. Ozzie came up with the concept of becoming fish themselves.



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Story

INTO THIN AIR

In 1991, a heartbroken Aussie surfer named Lance Knight lies awake and dreams of a perfect wave all to himself. He wakes up determined to move forward. He finds some Marine charts of the Indian Ocean and starts mapping out rumors he’s heard. He decides on a small island called Sipora, off West Sumatra. Having traveled most of the way from Australia overland, He arrives in the capital of Padang by bus.

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Editorial

SUMMER ISSUE

A provocative word, summer. It evokes not only our favorite memories but also our finest hopes. Especially here on the equator where we have only two seasons. Wet and dry. Though our recent monsoon was unreasonably long, the surf it gave us was wonderously bountiful. So with a summer season that has kicked off with some of the highest quality surf seen in years, all in all, we have had one of the best years of surf ever. Or maybe it is just that we are surfing more and better than ever.

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Close Out

SOMETIMES CHASING A DREAM CAN TAKE YOU OVER THE EDGE

Kelly Slater, evergreen pilgrim, living as if he will die tomorrow, learning as if he will live forever. And realizing that the past has no power over the present. 44 years old and still pushing his own limits. Our limits. An inspiration to us all…even when, like the fighter pilot he is, he chooses to eject. Photography by Pete Frieden

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