Although just the mention of the word Java has been enough to send imaginations soaring throughout history, to the modern surfer it holds even more mystery than most imaginations are capable of. With a deadly, rough coast, ship eating waters, volcanic events that alter the very tectonic plates beneath us and over 1000 kilometers of exposed coastline, this 13th largest island in the world remains one of our last unexplored surf zones.
Photographer Everton Luis, Craig Anderson, Bryce Young, Alex Knost and Ozzie Wright, on yet another dream trip to the Mentawai Islands, sat on the aft of the good ship STAR KOAT trying to come up with a different way to photograph the Mentawai. Ozzie came up with the concept of becoming fish themselves.
In 1991, a heartbroken Aussie surfer named Lance Knight lies awake and dreams of a perfect wave all to himself. He wakes up determined to move forward. He finds some Marine charts of the Indian Ocean and starts mapping out rumors he’s heard. He decides on a small island called Sipora, off West Sumatra. Having traveled most of the way from Australia overland, He arrives in the capital of Padang by bus.
A provocative word, summer. It evokes not only our favorite memories but also our finest hopes. Especially here on the equator where we have only two seasons. Wet and dry. Though our recent monsoon was unreasonably long, the surf it gave us was wonderously bountiful. So with a summer season that has kicked off with some of the highest quality surf seen in years, all in all, we have had one of the best years of surf ever. Or maybe it is just that we are surfing more and better than ever.
Kelly Slater, evergreen pilgrim, living as if he will die tomorrow, learning as if he will live forever. And realizing that the past has no power over the present. 44 years old and still pushing his own limits. Our limits. An inspiration to us all…even when, like the fighter pilot he is, he chooses to eject. Photography by Pete Frieden