Passion Comes in Waves

Story

ROB MACHADO AT 41: THE SECOND COMING


Rob Machado, Photographed By Matt George, Uluwatu Villas, Bali Indonesia, 05MAY15, 1430hrs

Old friends, Rob Machado and I caught up recently at Uluwatu in Bali. He was changing the diaper of his third child. A boy named Jax. Rob’s pride and joy. But despite the diaper, let’s not forget Rob Machado has been world ranked #2, has won over eight world tour events, was runner up to Kelly Slater in the Surfer Poll for over six years,



read more

TEMPLE SESSION THE A-TEAM GOES OLD SCHOOL

Mega Semadhi, Surfing with unquestioned devotion, paddled out to meet the Kuta boys who were on a pilgrimage of their own. A Pemangku in training, Mega is perhaps the most worthy local on earth, and certainly the most spiritual.

It makes sense that Pura Luhur Uluwatu, one of six key spiritual Balinese pillar temples, also hosts the most spectacular surfing village on earth. Visible from the remarkable line-up on, perched on top of her steep limestone cliffs rising over 70 metres above sea level, the Balinese Hindu believe that the three divine powers of Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva become one entity here. That belief results in making Uluwatu Temple a place of worship of Siva Rudra, the Balinese Hindu deity of all elements and aspects of life in the Universe. Pura Uluwatu is also dedicated to protect Bali from evil sea spirits. ’Ulu’ means the ‘top’ or the ‘tip’ and ‘watu’ means a ‘stone’ or a ‘rock’ in Balinese. Several archaeological remains found here prove the temple to be of megalithic origin, dating back to around the 10th century.

read more

THE BEAUTIFUL FLOWER AND THE CALM SEAS, PUANANI AND KAILANI JONNSON ARE OUT FOR BLOOD

Puanani and Kailani Jonnson, Photographed By Matt George, at Mangku Studio, Bali Indonesia, 20APRIL15, 1048hrs

There is no one else like them on the island.

Born and raised in Bali, as much a part of this island as any, their names are deceiving. Honoring their Father’s early Hawaiian experience and their own understanding of a different archipelago’s soul. Puanani, meaning “Beautiful flower” in the half-forgotten language of Hawaii and younger sister Kailani, meaning “The Calm sea”. How fitting for them both. How perfectly named. Surfers. Champions. Achievers. The following is what they have to say for themselves.

read more

UNFORGIVEN: CHRIS WARD IS LOOKING FOR REDEMPTION AND HE JUST MIGHT HAVE FOUND IT ON LOMBOK

Inspired by the success of Mick Fanning, Joel, Taj and Kelly, all surfers reaching middle age, Chris Ward, at 36 years old, wants a second chance at the world tour. And now, currently in training and deadly serious, boosting airs as high as anyone, he is good enough to do it. Scary hand-grab air, Secret spot. Lombok, 2015. He made it. Photographed by Pete Frieden

Wives are odd creatures.
But then, so are husbands.

Especially pro surfer husbands. And that goes double for pro surfers who travel with their wives. Those long suffering wives who get to go to the most beautiful places on earth with nothing really to do other than be a part of their husband’s trip. So, in honor of these long suffering wives, and to gain insight into their thoughts, we offer to you the following pages from Michelle Ward’s Indonesian journal. Michelle Ward’s un-edited impressions from she and her husband Chris’s recent strike into the wilds of Lombok.

Despite its simplicity and grammatical disasters, it’s a lot deeper than it may seem. It reflects the supreme patience of these traveling women and their incredible capacity for tolerance. As witnessed in this piece of revisionist history about a trip with the great Chris Ward. Because as anybody that has been within ten meters of Chris Ward knows, nothing he does or thinks even remotely resembles a romantic vacation. The man can be as sweet as any of us, but is mostly, and in a strange way lovingly, a walking powder keg.

But that’s just not how wives and Mother’s see things… is it?

read more