Passion Comes in Waves

Story

AN ALL-STAR CREW TAKE ON MASSIVE DESERT POINT

PETE MATTHEWS: “Mason Ho called me up out of nowhere, he was in Japan surfing 6 inch waves and he saw the swell coming to Indo so we planned on getting some waves at Deserts. He flew in and at this point Chris Ward was mysteriously staying on my couch for a week and would not leave my house. Wardo knew that Mason was coming in now, so Wardo really wasn’t going to leave the house until he knew what was going on. Then those guys got here, Shawn Briley, Kalani Chapman, Mason Ho, and somehow they just abandoned ship and jumped on a plane to Lombok and I was stuck with Wardo, and you know him, if Deserts is breaking and he isn’t there it’s like a death sentence to him.

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A DELICATE DANCE: JAVA, LAND OF THE FREE…

The Fisherman’s Daughter: Part One

The Fisherman watches them eat like tigers, these surfers. The morning’s catch laid out before them on the front porch of his home within eyeshot of the great waves the surfers have come to play in. Nearby, three big, shiny black cars with surfboards and more riches in the forms of cameras and equipment than his entire village is worth.
He knew the tall ambitious surfer, the one from Bali. The fisherman had even helped him buy all the land up on the hill overlooking the waves. They had discussed it at length over the years. How the tall Bali surfer wanted to create an escape, a getaway for his family. Away from the madness of Kuta Beach.

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THE DAY THEY WALKED ON THE MOON: THE TRUE STORY BEHIND THE LIVE WEBCAST FROM LANCES RIGHT AT THE RIP CURL WQS MENTAWAI PRO

“They said it couldn’t be done.
But then again, who are they?”

– Kelly Norris, WQS surfer –

The plan was more audacious than feasible.

To transport an entire WQS contest to a tiny island precisely 100 nautical miles off the coast of West Sumatra and plop it down onto the most refined right breaking wave in the world. And then…from this remote jungle setting, attempt to Webcast it… live. The fact that this had never been done before from such an outlying location was the main draw. Although the fabled Mentawai islands have had their fair share of exposure over the years in film and photos, it was the idea of bringing these waves to the world in real time that appealed to the more adventurous among professional surfing’s establishment. Lances Rights, the very wave that, over 25 years ago, changed the face of surfing forever.

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DEGREES OF MASTERY: AN OPEN LETTER FROM PHOTOGRAPHER DIOGO D’OREY

I’ve been living in and out of Indonesia for the last 5 years and since the moment I landed I had a plan. I came here after a four year water photography Masters program in the heavy barrels of Puerto Escondido, Mexico. I decided when I came to Bali to shoot in the biggest barrels I could find. But with the amount of the greatest surf photographers based in Bali or visiting here, I knew it would take some time before I would gain the trust of those surfers who were willing to charge a different wave when the easiest thing to do would be to go and surf perfect Padang with 100 other guys or do a quick dash to Desert point…again.

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THE ANDRE ANWAR DIARIES: A SUMBAWAN BOY LOOK BACK

JUST A LITTLE SOMETHING

From the Western Australian diaries of Andre Anwar

At 17yrs old, Sumbawan Andre Anwar has been handed the second best opportunity for an Indonesian surfer in History. The first being the opportunity given to his Uncle Oney Anwar, whom Rip Curl has groomed as carefully as a rare orchid. But after years of careful handling, the competitive and media results of both these surfers would only impress their mothers. The ability? They have it in spades. But perhaps it is the very culture of Indonesia with its impotent education system, that fails to fire in young men the curiosity, ambition and imagination it takes to take the world by the balls. The following is a rare insight into the world of Andre Anwar from his point of view written down in a diary in a language not native to him. But within these words perhaps there is also an answer to why, with all the given talent in the world, most Indonesian surfers are victims as international competitors and citizens. Desire and familiar comforts of home eternally at odds with potential professional success.

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