Passion Comes in Waves

Story

20TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE #120

In a world where plastic bags are found in the deepest place in the ocean and where ocean levels are rising unchecked, it is good to know that there is only one difference between surfing and statistical environmental science. In the science of it the universe is in control. In surfing, you are. Because Science may provide an understanding of the universal experience, but it is our surfing that provides a universal understanding of our personal experience. Which is why, after 20 stoked years of publishing this magazine, we are even more stoked to tell you that all our environmental efforts are beginning to take hold.

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BLOODLINES – THE WSL HAS NOTHING ON US

Some waves seemed tailor made for pro surfing events. The Bells Beach stadium, the J-Bay racetrack, Pipeline’s gladiatorial pit. But regardless of the developments and the pollution and the overcrowding and yes, even the World Surfing League’s Cirque Du Soleil come to town, Keramas will always be the people’s break. One reason being is that it is one of those rare breaks where the locals who surf it are actually more in tune and quite often better than the big pro’s who get to paddle out alone for a few heats now and then. Perhaps this is due to the toughness of the Eastside surfers.

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MONSTER: THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS ARE UNDER YOUR BED


Let us never forget that the Mentawai Islands and her magnificient waves lay in wait for us all. Haunting us. Like a monster under the bed, she is always on the edge of our consciousness. Ready to gobble us up in her life changing waves. And though she gives thousands of us our best fireside stories, here is her story. Of just who she is.



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DUE NORTH – THE COUNTRY IS STILL KING

Though well behaved, this year on the North Shore featured the most high pressure line-ups in history. With the great equalizer of high performance surfboards, comes a tougher task to stand out. Whether or not you are up to it is not a question, it’s an imperative.

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THE CUTTING EDGE – DO FINS HAVE SOUL?

In part two of our examination of Surfboard fins, we examine why surfboards are approached as if they are living things and yet fins, the very things that make surfboards possible to ride, are often just afterthoughts. When in fact it takes the same commitment to design, the same passion of thought and even greater cosmic science to create a surfboard fin. Might surfboard fins be infused with the same mythical, soulful elements of surfboards themselves?

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A LUCKY MAN – MUKLIS ANWAR SURFS FOR LOVE

Muklis Anwar dropped by the Surftime offices recently. His usual cheerful, smiling self. A naturally positive surfer. As if he was born with a happy gene. But in reality we discovered it is more than that. Here is a North Bali Island surfer, born into the Islamic enclave of village Medewi, who from very humble beginnings, made his own path to happiness through belief, commitment and maybe just a little luck. The following are some of the truths we learned about Muklis Anwar:

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