Passion Comes in Waves

Story

THE ISSUE OF TRAVEL

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

There is much to the theory as to why Balinese surfers in particular don’t really travel much. And have never made a splash on the international scene. Excepting, of course, Rizal Tandjung’s Pipeline miracle. But then that was 24 years ago. Sure there are the visa hassles, but alot of people have those. No, it’s more about comfort. Balinese surfers live in the best surf in the world. They also own it. They are also close to family and wealth and friends and culture and the food they love.

Why leave paradise? Let’s face it, there’s a reason 6 million tourists come here. Still, the wonder of travel is there for anyone who gets restless. And that is what this issue is all about. Inspiration to get out there and see all of it. It’s always better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.

So in this issue, we bring you daring adventures from three corners of our world. Alan Van Gysen reports in from Equatorial Guinea, a place hard to find on any map. But then…it always feels good to be lost in the right direction. We also have Pete Frieden reporting in from the roughhousing of the North Shore season.

And in a place that might never exist, a transitory place, International award winning fine arts photographer Ben Thouard brings us to a place that can never be found on any map. Of course, true places never are. The world is a book and those who do not travel read only the same page over and over. We say get out there. If you think adventures are dangerous, try routine. It’s lethal. Live your life by a compass, not a clock. All you need to travel this great blue world is to know that it’s possible.

And remember, if you travel far enough, you’re gonna get a chance to meet yourself.

– Editor –  

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NEW MOON – MICK FANNING IS OFF THE LEASH

What do you do once you have reached the summit of the tallest mountain on earth? Do it again? Or climb a different one? In Kelly Slaters case, he’s doing both at the same time. Mick Fanning? He’s keeping it alot more simple. One of the only 26 men on earth that can call themselves World Surfing Champions, Mick’s path seems to be full of bubble gum and happy dreams. Especially his first search trip since his official retirement seen here. His is the ultimate retirement on the ultimate search. One where the back slapping need never end.

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BLOODLINES – THE WSL HAS NOTHING ON US



Some waves seemed tailor made for pro surfing events. The Bells Beach stadium, the J-Bay racetrack, Pipeline’s gladiatorial pit. But regardless of the developments and the pollution and the overcrowding and yes, even the World Surfing League’s Cirque Du Soleil come to town, Keramas will always be the people’s break. One reason being is that it is one of those rare breaks where the locals who surf it are actually more in tune and quite often better than the big pro’s who get to paddle out alone for a few heats now and then. Perhaps this is due to the toughness of the Eastside surfers.



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MONSTER: THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS ARE UNDER YOUR BED

Let us never forget that the Mentawai Islands and her magnificient waves lay in wait for us all. Haunting us. Like a monster under the bed, she is always on the edge of our consciousness. Ready to gobble us up in her life changing waves. And though she gives thousands of us our best fireside stories, here is her story. Of just who she is.

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DUE NORTH – THE COUNTRY IS STILL KING

Though well behaved, this year on the North Shore featured the most high pressure line-ups in history. With the great equalizer of high performance surfboards, comes a tougher task to stand out. Whether or not you are up to it is not a question, it’s an imperative.

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THE CUTTING EDGE – DO FINS HAVE SOUL?

In part two of our examination of Surfboard fins, we examine why surfboards are approached as if they are living things and yet fins, the very things that make surfboards possible to ride, are often just afterthoughts. When in fact it takes the same commitment to design, the same passion of thought and even greater cosmic science to create a surfboard fin. Might surfboard fins be infused with the same mythical, soulful elements of surfboards themselves?

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