Passion Comes in Waves

Story

SEASON OPENER: WEST SIDE THE LONG WAIT IS OVER

You are from South Africa. You are are 31 years old. You have been surfing for 23 of those years. You are a good surfer. A few regional contests in your past. But University and then the kids burnt those dreams down. You probably weren’t good enough anyway. But you are still good enough to dominate the line-up of your home break. A goofy foot. You watch the WSL broadcasts religiously.

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GOING TOO FAR – SURFING AMONG THE GHOSTS OF MICRONESIA

It is impossible to partner in the mind the breathtaking beauty of Micronesia with the greatest slaughter of human beings in history. And yet, it happened. Though the memories are fading, the Pacific theater of World War Two was fought so inhumanely in Micronesia, with such horror, with such blood, with so many men, women and children burnt and blown to rags, that surfing in these graveyard waters seems almost blasphemous. But history marches on, on to new horrors, one bloody thing after another, and the battlefields and the guts and the spilled blood are forgotten.

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NEW MOON – MICK FANNING IS OFF THE LEASH

What do you do once you have reached the summit of the tallest mountain on earth? Do it again? Or climb a different one? In Kelly Slaters case, he’s doing both at the same time. Mick Fanning? He’s keeping it alot more simple. One of the only 26 men on earth that can call themselves World Surfing Champions, Mick’s path seems to be full of bubble gum and happy dreams. Especially his first search trip since his official retirement seen here. His is the ultimate retirement on the ultimate search. One where the back slapping need never end.

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BLOODLINES – THE WSL HAS NOTHING ON US

Some waves seemed tailor made for pro surfing events. The Bells Beach stadium, the J-Bay racetrack, Pipeline’s gladiatorial pit. But regardless of the developments and the pollution and the overcrowding and yes, even the World Surfing League’s Cirque Du Soleil come to town, Keramas will always be the people’s break. One reason being is that it is one of those rare breaks where the locals who surf it are actually more in tune and quite often better than the big pro’s who get to paddle out alone for a few heats now and then. Perhaps this is due to the toughness of the Eastside surfers.

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MONSTER: THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS ARE UNDER YOUR BED

Let us never forget that the Mentawai Islands and her magnificient waves lay in wait for us all. Haunting us. Like a monster under the bed, she is always on the edge of our consciousness. Ready to gobble us up in her life changing waves. And though she gives thousands of us our best fireside stories, here is her story. Of just who she is.

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