Passion Comes in Waves



I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

There is much to the theory as to why Balinese surfers in particular don’t really travel much. And have never made a splash on the international scene. Excepting, of course, Rizal Tandjung’s Pipeline miracle. But then that was 24 years ago. Sure there are the visa hassles, but alot of people have those. No, it’s more about comfort. Balinese surfers live in the best surf in the world. They also own it. They are also close to family and wealth and friends and culture and the food they love.

Why leave paradise? Let’s face it, there’s a reason 6 million tourists come here. Still, the wonder of travel is there for anyone who gets restless. And that is what this issue is all about. Inspiration to get out there and see all of it. It’s always better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.

So in this issue, we bring you daring adventures from three corners of our world. Alan Van Gysen reports in from Equatorial Guinea, a place hard to find on any map. But then…it always feels good to be lost in the right direction. We also have Pete Frieden reporting in from the roughhousing of the North Shore season.

And in a place that might never exist, a transitory place, International award winning fine arts photographer Ben Thouard brings us to a place that can never be found on any map. Of course, true places never are. The world is a book and those who do not travel read only the same page over and over. We say get out there. If you think adventures are dangerous, try routine. It’s lethal. Live your life by a compass, not a clock. All you need to travel this great blue world is to know that it’s possible.

And remember, if you travel far enough, you’re gonna get a chance to meet yourself.

– Editor –  

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One left. One right. And Pete Frieden is there. Where he finds the energy is anybody’s guess, but he always seems to be in the right place at the right time whenever both of our Premiere breaks, Bangko Bangko and Keramas, hit their stride. We know it involves being not only connected, but trusted by top flight surfers. With their secret plans to secret places. In Pete Frieden’s case we know it means late night Ferry crossings and sketchy rental cars and scooters and hiking around for the right angles.

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Former pro surfer Damea Dorsey has always followed his passions wherever they take him. His commanding surf photography express the same approach he brings to his surfing. Aggressive, courageous, composed. Currently he lives in Bali and, extraordinarily, is also among the best barbers on the island. You can find him upstairs at the Deus Temple of Enthusiasm in one of the grooviest spaces in town. His authentic, old school barbershop, but with a subtle modern flair. Portraits of famous celebrities like Marilyn Monroe and Elvis hang on the wooden walls, but look a bit closer and you will see the photoshopped tattoos on all of them. A clever riff in a very clever atmosphere. Recently correspondent Stephanie Moon sat down for a chat with this Southern Californian native who has made Bali the home for his art and his… well… hair.

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Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards. And so exists a man named Pete Frieden who has understood and lived his life in this manner for over 48 years. Though he is from Cocoa Beach Florida, is based in Hawaii and has a house in South Africa, his muse has always been Indonesia for decades recording the waves.

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A photographer is more than a man with a small machine in his hand. A photographer, a true photographer, is a witness to the artfulness of earth. Their camera becoming more a sketchbook than a cold digital capture. The camera as an instrument of spontaneity, of intuition. Like most great photographers, Trevor Murphy knows all this and more.

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