In a world where plastic bags are found in the deepest place in the ocean and where ocean levels are rising unchecked, it is good to know that there is only one difference between surfing and statistical environmental science. In the science of it the universe is in control. In surfing, you are. Because Science may provide an understanding of the universal experience, but it is our surfing that provides a universal understanding of our personal experience. Which is why, after 20 stoked years of publishing this magazine, we are even more stoked to tell you that all our environmental efforts are beginning to take hold.
Former pro surfer Damea Dorsey has always followed his passions wherever they take him. His commanding surf photography express the same approach he brings to his surfing. Aggressive, courageous, composed. Currently he lives in Bali and, extraordinarily, is also among the best barbers on the island. You can find him upstairs at the Deus Temple of Enthusiasm in one of the grooviest spaces in town. His authentic, old school barbershop, but with a subtle modern flair. Portraits of famous celebrities like Marilyn Monroe and Elvis hang on the wooden walls, but look a bit closer and you will see the photoshopped tattoos on all of them. A clever riff in a very clever atmosphere. Recently correspondent Stephanie Moon sat down for a chat with this Southern Californian native who has made Bali the home for his art and his… well… hair.
Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards. And so exists a man named Pete Frieden who has understood and lived his life in this manner for over 48 years. Though he is from Cocoa Beach Florida, is based in Hawaii and has a house in South Africa, his muse has always been Indonesia for decades recording the waves.
A photographer is more than a man with a small machine in his hand. A photographer, a true photographer, is a witness to the artfulness of earth. Their camera becoming more a sketchbook than a cold digital capture. The camera as an instrument of spontaneity, of intuition. Like most great photographers, Trevor Murphy knows all this and more.