The art of wave riding is very hard to describe. To paint surfing and time spent in and around the ocean with a single brush is damn near impossible. Surﬁng to some people is the freedom from the stresses of everyday life. A release or escape from the realities of a day working your ﬁngers to the bone. To others its their job or career. Working their hardest to sustain the life they love in and around the ocean.
One left. One right. And Pete Frieden is there. Where he finds the energy is anybody’s guess, but he always seems to be in the right place at the right time whenever both of our Premiere breaks, Bangko Bangko and Keramas, hit their stride. We know it involves being not only connected, but trusted by top flight surfers. With their secret plans to secret places. In Pete Frieden’s case we know it means late night Ferry crossings and sketchy rental cars and scooters and hiking around for the right angles.
Former pro surfer Damea Dorsey has always followed his passions wherever they take him. His commanding surf photography express the same approach he brings to his surfing. Aggressive, courageous, composed. Currently he lives in Bali and, extraordinarily, is also among the best barbers on the island. You can find him upstairs at the Deus Temple of Enthusiasm in one of the grooviest spaces in town. His authentic, old school barbershop, but with a subtle modern flair. Portraits of famous celebrities like Marilyn Monroe and Elvis hang on the wooden walls, but look a bit closer and you will see the photoshopped tattoos on all of them. A clever riff in a very clever atmosphere. Recently correspondent Stephanie Moon sat down for a chat with this Southern Californian native who has made Bali the home for his art and his… well… hair.
Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards. And so exists a man named Pete Frieden who has understood and lived his life in this manner for over 48 years. Though he is from Cocoa Beach Florida, is based in Hawaii and has a house in South Africa, his muse has always been Indonesia for decades recording the waves.
A photographer is more than a man with a small machine in his hand. A photographer, a true photographer, is a witness to the artfulness of earth. Their camera becoming more a sketchbook than a cold digital capture. The camera as an instrument of spontaneity, of intuition. Like most great photographers, Trevor Murphy knows all this and more.