In a world where plastic bags are found in the deepest place in the ocean and where ocean levels are rising unchecked, it is good to know that there is only one difference between surfing and statistical environmental science. In the science of it the universe is in control. In surfing, you are. Because Science may provide an understanding of the universal experience, but it is our surfing that provides a universal understanding of our personal experience. Which is why, after 20 stoked years of publishing this magazine, we are even more stoked to tell you that all our environmental efforts are beginning to take hold.
Our current state of affairs on Bali. The scraping down of our sacred ground. Only to build our temples of greed upon her bare bones. Forcing a fabricated idea of paradise upon a land that was already a perfect one. Wouldn’t it be remarkable if the sport of surfing actually had a president? Not just for the WSL, but for our entire surfing world?
Getting older is no place for sissies. Look at Kelly Slater. 43 now, and proving every single day of his life that beingover the hillcan be an opportunity to pick up speed. That time need not be the enemy. That time and age need not be a demon that goes about its work of making everyone look and feel like Methusela.
At no time is surfing heroism more evident than when monster swells pound our shores. And they recently did. Take another look at the cover of this magazine. Despite the griping about what the “Millennium swell” really delivered, and while the whole world seemed to be playing at Padang Padang, the biggest Indonesian wave ever paddled into happened over on Nias.
Pardon the inconvenience, but Bali is under construction. And after all those shiny new cars and big screen TV’s and iPhones fall apart, will you only then ask yourself… Is this what I really wanted? Desire can create or kill. On Bali, it looks like we have already made our choice. Is it just us or is nobody saying anything anymore? We seem to all be just standing by our phones.