Passion Comes in Waves



In a world where plastic bags are found in the deepest place in the ocean and where ocean levels are rising unchecked, it is good to know that there is only one difference between surfing and statistical environmental science. In the science of it the universe is in control. In surfing, you are. Because Science may provide an understanding of the universal experience, but it is our surfing that provides a universal understanding of our personal experience. Which is why, after 20 stoked years of publishing this magazine, we are even more stoked to tell you that all our environmental efforts are beginning to take hold.

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“It was a beautiful, harmonious, peaceful looking planet, blue with white clouds. A planet that gave you a deep sense of home, of being, of identity. Looking at it from space gives you an instant global consciousness”.

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Once you have ridden a wave on the other side of the world, you are never the same. Because surf travel turns you into a storyteller. Imagine a time before photography, what travel was like. Pencil sketches from memory. But when you think about it…is it all that much different in our digital world? Then or now, travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer. A promise that the life you have led need not be the one you always have to. All it takes to change everything is to go. And so… in this issue we go to many places.

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Must a living thing have a eyes to have a soul?

Does a wave, however transitory, have a soul? Considering that a wave is a powerful band of energy moving through a living medium, it could be so. Our souls are mere thoughts moving across the living medium of our minds. So it could be so. Perhaps that is what we feel when we surf that perfect session. Or that secret session. Or that big session.

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So this is what retirement looks like these days.

Not long ago retirement for a surfer meant the Pipe dream of a desert island, a few coconut trees, an island wife and a perfect wave out in front of a grass shack. But then…even when the G-land discoverers had it in the palm of their hands, they still managed to screw it all up. No, the new alpha Pro males have a whole new take on it. A whole new world.

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Oh Holy Night. In a year where we have seen a red moon and the sun itself come closest to the earth in hundreds of years, it is no surprise that our eyes turned to the heavens more than ever before. This year’s Nyepi day, the day of silence, was observed under an extraordinary night. This Nyepi night, with all lights out and during the only International airport closure for a spiritual event in the world, the atmospheric conditions were perfect. Revealing what really lies above us. Not a breath a wind, not a cloud in the sky. No haze, no smog. Perfect stillness. Not even the bark of a single dog. And a domed blanket of stars so rich and so clear that you could even make out the colours of the Universe. Countless visitors simply lay back in their hotel pools and felt the enormity of the sky and the soft pressure of absolute silence. A tear inducing reminder of what we are on earth and an idea of where we fit in.

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