Passion Comes in Waves



In a world where plastic bags are found in the deepest place in the ocean and where ocean levels are rising unchecked, it is good to know that there is only one difference between surfing and statistical environmental science. In the science of it the universe is in control. In surfing, you are. Because Science may provide an understanding of the universal experience, but it is our surfing that provides a universal understanding of our personal experience. Which is why, after 20 stoked years of publishing this magazine, we are even more stoked to tell you that all our environmental efforts are beginning to take hold.

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The Sky is falling. And our Oceans came from up there. Not surprising that surfing has always been referred to as a cosmic experience. After all, most of the earth’s Ocean’s were created by marauding comets.The bombardment would have happened some eight million years after the earth was formed. That’s right. Comets, not Asteroids.

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The Photography Issue

There are always at least two people in a surf photo. The surfer and the photographer. A surf photographer does not shoot what he sees, he shoots what we feel. And that puts him in the photo too. Funny how we use the term for surf photographers being “behind the lens”. When in fact they are in front of it. Surfers are not surfing in front of photographers, photographers are shooting in front of surfers.

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Welcome to our Truth issue. And the surfers on the cutting edge that are pushing our sport forward to the outer limits of environmentalism, imagery, engineering and performance. So, with this in mind, we kick off this issue with a profound question. What the hell is wrong with us? Read our first article to find out. Next, as much as we speak of our surfboards having the soul of the shaper and the surfer in them, do fins have soul too? After all, unless you are a finless rider, nothing is possible without them. Could not the complicated engineering that goes into them, the very human energy that goes into their production, might this also have a scent of soul?

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Although one’s life is not defined by the awards one receives, it sure helps. And with the 14th Annual Surftime Awards we were so very proud to celebrate the best of Indonesian Surf Culture and shower our awards over our community once again. More a gathering than just a party, the Surftime Awards not only signifies the end of our publishing year, but of all the fantastic achievements of its past year.

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A provocative word, summer. It evokes not only our favorite memories but also our finest hopes. Especially here on the equator where we have only two seasons. Wet and dry. Though our recent monsoon was unreasonably long, the surf it gave us was wonderously bountiful. So with a summer season that has kicked off with some of the highest quality surf seen in years, all in all, we have had one of the best years of surf ever. Or maybe it is just that we are surfing more and better than ever.

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