Passion Comes in Waves

Editorial

THE ISSUE OF TRAVEL

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

There is much to the theory as to why Balinese surfers in particular don’t really travel much. And have never made a splash on the international scene. Excepting, of course, Rizal Tandjung’s Pipeline miracle. But then that was 24 years ago. Sure there are the visa hassles, but alot of people have those. No, it’s more about comfort. Balinese surfers live in the best surf in the world. They also own it. They are also close to family and wealth and friends and culture and the food they love.

Why leave paradise? Let’s face it, there’s a reason 6 million tourists come here. Still, the wonder of travel is there for anyone who gets restless. And that is what this issue is all about. Inspiration to get out there and see all of it. It’s always better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.

So in this issue, we bring you daring adventures from three corners of our world. Alan Van Gysen reports in from Equatorial Guinea, a place hard to find on any map. But then…it always feels good to be lost in the right direction. We also have Pete Frieden reporting in from the roughhousing of the North Shore season.

And in a place that might never exist, a transitory place, International award winning fine arts photographer Ben Thouard brings us to a place that can never be found on any map. Of course, true places never are. The world is a book and those who do not travel read only the same page over and over. We say get out there. If you think adventures are dangerous, try routine. It’s lethal. Live your life by a compass, not a clock. All you need to travel this great blue world is to know that it’s possible.

And remember, if you travel far enough, you’re gonna get a chance to meet yourself.

– Editor –  

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THE TRUTH ISSUE

Welcome to our Truth issue. And the surfers on the cutting edge that are pushing our sport forward to the outer limits of environmentalism, imagery, engineering and performance. So, with this in mind, we kick off this issue with a profound question. What the hell is wrong with us? Read our first article to find out. Next, as much as we speak of our surfboards having the soul of the shaper and the surfer in them, do fins have soul too? After all, unless you are a finless rider, nothing is possible without them. Could not the complicated engineering that goes into them, the very human energy that goes into their production, might this also have a scent of soul?

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THE SURFTIME AWARDS ISSUE



Although one’s life is not defined by the awards one receives, it sure helps. And with the 14th Annual Surftime Awards we were so very proud to celebrate the best of Indonesian Surf Culture and shower our awards over our community once again. More a gathering than just a party, the Surftime Awards not only signifies the end of our publishing year, but of all the fantastic achievements of its past year.



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SUMMER ISSUE

A provocative word, summer. It evokes not only our favorite memories but also our finest hopes. Especially here on the equator where we have only two seasons. Wet and dry. Though our recent monsoon was unreasonably long, the surf it gave us was wonderously bountiful. So with a summer season that has kicked off with some of the highest quality surf seen in years, all in all, we have had one of the best years of surf ever. Or maybe it is just that we are surfing more and better than ever.

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GLOBAL SURFING ISSUE

“It was a beautiful, harmonious, peaceful looking planet, blue with white clouds. A planet that gave you a deep sense of home, of being, of identity. Looking at it from space gives you an instant global consciousness”.

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THE ISSUE OF TRAVEL

Once you have ridden a wave on the other side of the world, you are never the same. Because surf travel turns you into a storyteller. Imagine a time before photography, what travel was like. Pencil sketches from memory. But when you think about it…is it all that much different in our digital world? Then or now, travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer. A promise that the life you have led need not be the one you always have to. All it takes to change everything is to go. And so… in this issue we go to many places.

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