Passion Comes in Waves



A provocative word, summer. It evokes not only our favorite memories but also our finest hopes. Especially here on the equator where we have only two seasons. Wet and dry. Though our recent monsoon was unreasonably long, the surf it gave us was wonderously bountiful. So with a summer season that has kicked off with some of the highest quality surf seen in years, all in all, we have had one of the best years of surf ever. Or maybe it is just that we are surfing more and better than ever.

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“It was a beautiful, harmonious, peaceful looking planet, blue with white clouds. A planet that gave you a deep sense of home, of being, of identity. Looking at it from space gives you an instant global consciousness”.

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Once you have ridden a wave on the other side of the world, you are never the same. Because surf travel turns you into a storyteller. Imagine a time before photography, what travel was like. Pencil sketches from memory. But when you think about it…is it all that much different in our digital world? Then or now, travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer. A promise that the life you have led need not be the one you always have to. All it takes to change everything is to go. And so… in this issue we go to many places.

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Must a living thing have a eyes to have a soul?

Does a wave, however transitory, have a soul? Considering that a wave is a powerful band of energy moving through a living medium, it could be so. Our souls are mere thoughts moving across the living medium of our minds. So it could be so. Perhaps that is what we feel when we surf that perfect session. Or that secret session. Or that big session.

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So this is what retirement looks like these days.

Not long ago retirement for a surfer meant the Pipe dream of a desert island, a few coconut trees, an island wife and a perfect wave out in front of a grass shack. But then…even when the G-land discoverers had it in the palm of their hands, they still managed to screw it all up. No, the new alpha Pro males have a whole new take on it. A whole new world.

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