Passion Comes in Waves

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20TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE #120

In a world where plastic bags are found in the deepest place in the ocean and where ocean levels are rising unchecked, it is good to know that there is only one difference between surfing and statistical environmental science. In the science of it the universe is in control. In surfing, you are. Because Science may provide an understanding of the universal experience, but it is our surfing that provides a universal understanding of our personal experience. Which is why, after 20 stoked years of publishing this magazine, we are even more stoked to tell you that all our environmental efforts are beginning to take hold.

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WHO STROVE WITH GODS

At play in the fields of the Lords. From Left to right, master photographer Hamish Humphreys (Over 30yrs), Master meteorologist “Chongee” (over 40yrs) , Master board builder “Basti” (over 40yrs) and finally Master Surfer Pete Matthews (over 40yrs, and in a timeless Hawaiian layback) celebrate their respective ages in timeless moment of joy. We do not stop playing because we grow old…we grow old, because we stop playing. Photographed by Mick Curley

Old age hath yet his honour and his toil; Death closes all, but something near the end, some work of noble note, may yet be done. Not unbecoming men who strove with Gods.

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BALI


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The current State of the Union to me here in Bali is that there is enough on this island for everyone’s needs, but not near enough for everyone’s greed. But I guess the waves… they will always come. Like the stars above, pleasing us foolish humans who have been destroying this place since the 70’s.



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THE AIRLESS PLACE

Brandon-George-Ceremony-Bali-2015-big-file

Surfers are like astronauts spacewalking nude.
Because we visit an airless place too.
But we wear nothing but courage.
Because Surfers are experts at dying.

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Close Out

Our dump. Our garbage. Our self-disrespect. Serangan, Bali. Entire neighborhoods, including their temples, now smell revolting. And with the right wind, so do our line-ups. Waves used to break at this very spot. Did you know that? Take a good look at this bull. The perfect metaphor for the evil forces that are destroying this island piece by piece. The developers. Powerful, dangerous, defiant, uncaring of their own soiled nest.

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