Passion Comes in Waves

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THE ISSUE OF PASSION

We are only great when we act with great passion. Especially when it can overcome a very wet monsoon season. These past few months have demanded a passion from all of us. A passion for waves, a passion for the environment, a passion for each other. Only a few windows of opportunity presented themselves. You had to be on or miss it.

You could see it in the surfing, led by a re-energized Garut Widarta, who has been surfing better than he ever has. Surftime sat with him recently and asked what it was that had fueled his new passion. He replied simply, “Fatherhood”. We are also proud to feature on our cover the great Made Winada Adi Putra.

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WHO STROVE WITH GODS

At play in the fields of the Lords. From Left to right, master photographer Hamish Humphreys (Over 30yrs), Master meteorologist “Chongee” (over 40yrs) , Master board builder “Basti” (over 40yrs) and finally Master Surfer Pete Matthews (over 40yrs, and in a timeless Hawaiian layback) celebrate their respective ages in timeless moment of joy. We do not stop playing because we grow old…we grow old, because we stop playing. Photographed by Mick Curley

Old age hath yet his honour and his toil; Death closes all, but something near the end, some work of noble note, may yet be done. Not unbecoming men who strove with Gods.

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BALI


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The current State of the Union to me here in Bali is that there is enough on this island for everyone’s needs, but not near enough for everyone’s greed. But I guess the waves… they will always come. Like the stars above, pleasing us foolish humans who have been destroying this place since the 70’s.



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THE AIRLESS PLACE

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Surfers are like astronauts spacewalking nude.
Because we visit an airless place too.
But we wear nothing but courage.
Because Surfers are experts at dying.

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Close Out

Our dump. Our garbage. Our self-disrespect. Serangan, Bali. Entire neighborhoods, including their temples, now smell revolting. And with the right wind, so do our line-ups. Waves used to break at this very spot. Did you know that? Take a good look at this bull. The perfect metaphor for the evil forces that are destroying this island piece by piece. The developers. Powerful, dangerous, defiant, uncaring of their own soiled nest.

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