Passion Comes in Waves

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THE ISSUE OF TRAVEL

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

There is much to the theory as to why Balinese surfers in particular don’t really travel much. And have never made a splash on the international scene. Excepting, of course, Rizal Tandjung’s Pipeline miracle. But then that was 24 years ago. Sure there are the visa hassles, but alot of people have those. No, it’s more about comfort. Balinese surfers live in the best surf in the world. They also own it. They are also close to family and wealth and friends and culture and the food they love.

Why leave paradise? Let’s face it, there’s a reason 6 million tourists come here. Still, the wonder of travel is there for anyone who gets restless. And that is what this issue is all about. Inspiration to get out there and see all of it. It’s always better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.

So in this issue, we bring you daring adventures from three corners of our world. Alan Van Gysen reports in from Equatorial Guinea, a place hard to find on any map. But then…it always feels good to be lost in the right direction. We also have Pete Frieden reporting in from the roughhousing of the North Shore season.

And in a place that might never exist, a transitory place, International award winning fine arts photographer Ben Thouard brings us to a place that can never be found on any map. Of course, true places never are. The world is a book and those who do not travel read only the same page over and over. We say get out there. If you think adventures are dangerous, try routine. It’s lethal. Live your life by a compass, not a clock. All you need to travel this great blue world is to know that it’s possible.

And remember, if you travel far enough, you’re gonna get a chance to meet yourself.

– Editor –  

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WHO STROVE WITH GODS

At play in the fields of the Lords. From Left to right, master photographer Hamish Humphreys (Over 30yrs), Master meteorologist “Chongee” (over 40yrs) , Master board builder “Basti” (over 40yrs) and finally Master Surfer Pete Matthews (over 40yrs, and in a timeless Hawaiian layback) celebrate their respective ages in timeless moment of joy. We do not stop playing because we grow old…we grow old, because we stop playing. Photographed by Mick Curley

Old age hath yet his honour and his toil; Death closes all, but something near the end, some work of noble note, may yet be done. Not unbecoming men who strove with Gods.

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BALI



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The current State of the Union to me here in Bali is that there is enough on this island for everyone’s needs, but not near enough for everyone’s greed. But I guess the waves… they will always come. Like the stars above, pleasing us foolish humans who have been destroying this place since the 70’s.



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THE AIRLESS PLACE

Brandon-George-Ceremony-Bali-2015-big-file

Surfers are like astronauts spacewalking nude.
Because we visit an airless place too.
But we wear nothing but courage.
Because Surfers are experts at dying.

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Close Out

Our dump. Our garbage. Our self-disrespect. Serangan, Bali. Entire neighborhoods, including their temples, now smell revolting. And with the right wind, so do our line-ups. Waves used to break at this very spot. Did you know that? Take a good look at this bull. The perfect metaphor for the evil forces that are destroying this island piece by piece. The developers. Powerful, dangerous, defiant, uncaring of their own soiled nest.

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