Passion Comes in Waves

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I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

There is much to the theory as to why Balinese surfers in particular don’t really travel much. And have never made a splash on the international scene. Excepting, of course, Rizal Tandjung’s Pipeline miracle. But then that was 24 years ago. Sure there are the visa hassles, but alot of people have those. No, it’s more about comfort. Balinese surfers live in the best surf in the world. They also own it. They are also close to family and wealth and friends and culture and the food they love.

Why leave paradise? Let’s face it, there’s a reason 6 million tourists come here. Still, the wonder of travel is there for anyone who gets restless. And that is what this issue is all about. Inspiration to get out there and see all of it. It’s always better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.

So in this issue, we bring you daring adventures from three corners of our world. Alan Van Gysen reports in from Equatorial Guinea, a place hard to find on any map. But then…it always feels good to be lost in the right direction. We also have Pete Frieden reporting in from the roughhousing of the North Shore season.

And in a place that might never exist, a transitory place, International award winning fine arts photographer Ben Thouard brings us to a place that can never be found on any map. Of course, true places never are. The world is a book and those who do not travel read only the same page over and over. We say get out there. If you think adventures are dangerous, try routine. It’s lethal. Live your life by a compass, not a clock. All you need to travel this great blue world is to know that it’s possible.

And remember, if you travel far enough, you’re gonna get a chance to meet yourself.

– Editor –  

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In our 2016 June/July issue Surftime Magazine published an email received from Mr. Curtis Lowe of Project Clean Uluwatu which described an unfortunate incident at the Uluwatu Offices of PCU.

The Editor of Surftime Magazine, Matt George, both shared and published this email without express permission from Mr. Curtis Lowe.

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“There is no better way to experience the rawness of the movement of the Universe than getting encased in the barrel of a wave. Energy is at the base of it all. That is the direct connection to the cosmic. From the sun shining on the earth to heating things up, to creating winds that then make waves…there you go, the Universe’s direct transfer of energy… and we surfers get to join it, feel it, believe it. This energy is what drives our planet and by the time we paddle out, it’s driving us too”.

– Vince Longo, CTO Future fins –

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Hey Guys,

So, while i was away a drunken expat friend got a hold of the PCU keys and really jammed up my plan to force the board riders into taking some of the reigns here in Uluwatu. Set me back pretty bad really.

But, I still have faith that i can get these guys to see the value in owning PCU as their own thing.

The one thing they always bring up is that they want help raising travel money.

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The biggest challenge in life is trying to be yourself in a world that wants you to be like everybody else. Style is the answer to everything. A way to approach a dull or dangerous thing. To do a dull thing with style is better than doing a dangerous thing without it. To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art. Not many have style. Not many can keep style.

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“The greatest threat to our Ocean is the belief that someone else will save it” – Quote by ROBERT SWAN, the first man to walk to both the North and South Poles of the earth .

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