With all this talk of wave pools, let us not forget that ocean wave full power surfing will always reign supreme. And always has. Witness here Barry Kanaipuni, in a timeless power surfing moment from 1971 on the inside bowl of Sunset Beach, Hawaii. Barry practically invented power surfing. Often leaving other surfers, like Tiger Espere on the outside wave in this photo, in his slashing wake. And speaking of wakes, wave pools are nothing new.
1969. Sunset Beach, Oahu, Hawaii. Way before man on man competition and leashes and thrusters and videos, the Duke Kahanamoku Classic featured 9 men in the finals Think about that. From left to right: Joey Cabell Eddie Aikau, Billy Hamilton, Fred Hemmings, Gordo Barreda, Paul Strauch, Mike Doyle, Rolf Arness and Felipe Pomar.
Kelly Slater, evergreen pilgrim, living as if he will die tomorrow, learning as if he will live forever. And realizing that the past has no power over the present. 44 years old and still pushing his own limits. Our limits. An inspiration to us all…even when, like the fighter pilot he is, he chooses to eject. Photography by Pete Frieden
Photographer Olga Sinenko wondered what it was like. Wondered what it would look like. Surfing old Bali in the 30’s, but with today’s longboard surfers. So she got her hands on some old authentic camera’s, some ancient film, built custom housings and spent a week documenting the Canggu longboard scene with the same kind of camera equipment and film that was available back when there was only one surfer on the island.
“There is no better way to experience the rawness of the movement of the Universe than getting encased in the barrel of a wave. Energy is at the base of it all. That is the direct connection to the cosmic. From the sun shining on the earth to heating things up, to creating winds that then make waves…there you go, the Universe’s direct transfer of energy… and we surfers get to join it, feel it, believe it. This energy is what drives our planet and by the time we paddle out, it’s driving us too”.
– Vince Longo, CTO Future fins –