The art of wave riding is very hard to describe. To paint surfing and time spent in and around the ocean with a single brush is damn near impossible. Surﬁng to some people is the freedom from the stresses of everyday life. A release or escape from the realities of a day working your ﬁngers to the bone. To others its their job or career. Working their hardest to sustain the life they love in and around the ocean.
Surﬁng to me is a constant reminder not to take what we are given for granted. The fact that one good wave can change the outlook on your whole day, month , year and even your life is nothing short of amazing. The majority of earthlings have no clue the magnitude of stoke we ﬁnd in the motion of the ocean. The smiles a good session can bring and the tribe like quality it creates between total strangers is quite surreal. Cheering on your fellow man and looking out for their well being in the blink of a eye are qualities that are only found in the art of surﬁng.
Surﬁng to me is my life. It has its ups and it downs but in the end I am just happy I came along for the ride.
My Surfing Philosophy by Trevor Murphy