Passion Comes in Waves


One left. One right. And Pete Frieden is there. Where he finds the energy is anybody’s guess, but he always seems to be in the right place at the right time whenever both of our Premiere breaks, Bangko Bangko and Keramas, hit their stride. We know it involves being not only connected, but trusted by top flight surfers. With their secret plans to secret places. In Pete Frieden’s case we know it means late night Ferry crossings and sketchy rental cars and scooters and hiking around for the right angles.


We also know it means him jumping into vicious rips and currents and swimming against all odds. Having recently recovered from a life threatening illness, we find his recovery miraculous. Actually, we find him miraculous. How he keeps it up. Session after session, missing nothing. The global wanderer, be it Hawaii, South Africa or beyond. In this, our photography issue, we offer these examinations of the technique and style of some of Frieden’s favorite subjects. Frozen in time. Two moments of intensity each. An intensity as that reflects the extreme passions of these surfers, and the extreme passion it takes a photographer like Pete Frieden to capture them.