Passion Comes in Waves


Pardon the inconvenience, but Bali is under construction. And after all those shiny new cars and big screen TV’s and iPhones fall apart, will you only then ask yourself… Is this what I really wanted? Desire can create or kill. On Bali, it looks like we have already made our choice. Is it just us or is nobody saying anything anymore? We seem to all be just standing by our phones.

When was the last time anybody in the surfing world said anything of consequence or interest? Really. Aside from little Instagram digs? We have become like children throwing toys each other in a sandbox. Says who? Says Me! Says who? Says Me!

Ok, STAB does a good job lighting a few fires, even if it is mostly an exhausting, weary take on our Surfing world. But since when did the rest of us become mute? To witness a WSL contest broadcast is like listening to a bunch of apes. Lots of meaningless chatter peppered with the occasional aggressive genital display in the water. Surfers used to be counter culture heroes. Now the only heroics we seem to be interested in are found in GoPro hero’s. What happened? Surfers around the world used to be a political force. Influencing everything from the Apollo space program to the ending of the Vietnam war to the saving of great surf spots. Now, here in Bali at least, we can’t even seem to affect the massive destruction that is happening in our own front yards. The thoughtless slash and burn destruction of the “Island of the Gods” is proceeding at an exponential rate. Tourism is crashing. Tourist fatigue has set in. A lot less smiles these days….And have you actually seen the Uluwatu valley recently?

Do you care?
Look, we are not here to shake our fist at you.
But we would like to shake our fists with you.
And it starts with honesty. And knowing yourself.
More than anything, that is what this profile issue is about.
Honest words from great surfers.
Surfers that either know themselves or at least are try to.

Because it works like this:
Know yourself, and you know others.
Know others and you know your surroundings.
Know your surroundings and you can protect everything you love.
So get to know yourself, just like the surfers in this issue are.
And forget about saving the island of Bali.
Start thinking about saving yourself.
Because when it goes…so do you.


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