At last. It’s open season and we have a very special issue that we are proud to be bringing you. In this day and age of instagrams and the shallow immediacy of social media, Surftime is happy to be thriving here in Indonesia as a bastion of permanent images chock full of thoughts of the past, the present and the future. Thanks for coming with us and putting down the screens for some meaningful moments that will be preserved within these pages forever.
You are from South Africa. You are are 31 years old. You have been surfing for 23 of those years. You are a good surfer. A few regional contests in your past. But University and then the kids burnt those dreams down. You probably weren’t good enough anyway. But you are still good enough to dominate the line-up of your home break. A goofy foot. You watch the WSL broadcasts religiously.
It is impossible to partner in the mind the breathtaking beauty of Micronesia with the greatest slaughter of human beings in history. And yet, it happened. Though the memories are fading, the Pacific theater of World War Two was fought so inhumanely in Micronesia, with such horror, with such blood, with so many men, women and children burnt and blown to rags, that surfing in these graveyard waters seems almost blasphemous. But history marches on, on to new horrors, one bloody thing after another, and the battlefields and the guts and the spilled blood are forgotten.
With all this talk of wave pools, let us not forget that ocean wave full power surfing will always reign supreme. And always has. Witness here Barry Kanaipuni, in a timeless power surfing moment from 1971 on the inside bowl of Sunset Beach, Hawaii. Barry practically invented power surfing. Often leaving other surfers, like Tiger Espere on the outside wave in this photo, in his slashing wake. And speaking of wakes, wave pools are nothing new.
What do you do once you have reached the summit of the tallest mountain on earth? Do it again? Or climb a different one? In Kelly Slaters case, he’s doing both at the same time. Mick Fanning? He’s keeping it alot more simple. One of the only 26 men on earth that can call themselves World Surfing Champions, Mick’s path seems to be full of bubble gum and happy dreams. Especially his first search trip since his official retirement seen here. His is the ultimate retirement on the ultimate search. One where the back slapping need never end.