There are always at least two people in a surf photo. The surfer and the photographer. A surf photographer does not shoot what he sees, he shoots what we feel. And that puts him in the photo too. Funny how we use the term for surf photographers being “behind the lens”. When in fact they are in front of it. Surfers are not surfing in front of photographers, photographers are shooting in front of surfers.
Let us never forget that the Mentawai Islands and her magnificient waves lay in wait for us all. Haunting us. Like a monster under the bed, she is always on the edge of our consciousness. Ready to gobble us up in her life changing waves. And though she gives thousands of us our best fireside stories, here is her story. Of just who she is.
Though well behaved, this year on the North Shore featured the most high pressure line-ups in history. With the great equalizer of high performance surfboards, comes a tougher task to stand out. Whether or not you are up to it is not a question, it’s an imperative.
Welcome to our Truth issue. And the surfers on the cutting edge that are pushing our sport forward to the outer limits of environmentalism, imagery, engineering and performance. So, with this in mind, we kick off this issue with a profound question. What the hell is wrong with us? Read our first article to find out. Next, as much as we speak of our surfboards having the soul of the shaper and the surfer in them, do fins have soul too? After all, unless you are a finless rider, nothing is possible without them. Could not the complicated engineering that goes into them, the very human energy that goes into their production, might this also have a scent of soul?
You can always depend on the Bingin open to be a blast. More like a family affair than a surf contest, the performances this year were out of this world. With the typically perfect waves, all the competitors ramped it up and ripped from take off to kick out. An annual event that should be on everyone’s calendar, do not miss next years celebration of the world’s best short wave. The results below speak for themselves. Be there!