Passion Comes in Waves
Editorial

THE ISSUE OF TRAVEL

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

There is much to the theory as to why Balinese surfers in particular don’t really travel much. And have never made a splash on the international scene. Excepting, of course, Rizal Tandjung’s Pipeline miracle. But then that was 24 years ago. Sure there are the visa hassles, but alot of people have those. No, it’s more about comfort. Balinese surfers live in the best surf in the world. They also own it. They are also close to family and wealth and friends and culture and the food they love.

Why leave paradise? Let’s face it, there’s a reason 6 million tourists come here. Still, the wonder of travel is there for anyone who gets restless. And that is what this issue is all about. Inspiration to get out there and see all of it. It’s always better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.

So in this issue, we bring you daring adventures from three corners of our world. Alan Van Gysen reports in from Equatorial Guinea, a place hard to find on any map. But then…it always feels good to be lost in the right direction. We also have Pete Frieden reporting in from the roughhousing of the North Shore season.

And in a place that might never exist, a transitory place, International award winning fine arts photographer Ben Thouard brings us to a place that can never be found on any map. Of course, true places never are. The world is a book and those who do not travel read only the same page over and over. We say get out there. If you think adventures are dangerous, try routine. It’s lethal. Live your life by a compass, not a clock. All you need to travel this great blue world is to know that it’s possible.

And remember, if you travel far enough, you’re gonna get a chance to meet yourself.

– Editor –  

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Editorial

THE SURFTIME AWARDS ISSUE



It’s not a matter of doing something for recognition, but of doing something worthy of recognition. In this way, the awards will come to you, rather than turning you into a plow horse with a carrot swaying in front of your nose. Because fame is a virus that can kill. Like Ebola, it can strike people who were asking for it, or jump you in a dark alley. Either way, if you achieve fame, you are infected with its virus. And how you treat that infection is not up to you. Because with fame come a loss of intimacy and authenticity. And the added confusion of being worshiped. All those people in all those stadiums did not love Michael Jackson. They didn’t even know him. In that stadium they all just loved the way he made them feel. And this is what kills the artist. Either the belief that strangers really love you, or the hatred of them for doing so.



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Reviews

NEW VOLCOM STORE OPENING IN CANGGU, BALI

Volcom proudly announces another store opening in Canggu at Jalan Raya Batu Bolong No. 2. The store features Volcom’s entire beachwear collection ranging from boardshorts, rashguards, sandals, including the full range of Volcom Bali Inspired tees.

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Story

DESERT POINT – YOU NEVER GET IT OUT OF YOUR HEAD

Back when the Parthenon was still freshly buffed marble, Greek mariners shared tales of seductive creatures that lay on the shores of the Mediterranean. They had porcelain skin and hair of silk, but it was their voices that made these Sirens irresistible. When their sweet melody made it beyond the waves, passing sailors were drawn to the shore, wrecking their ships on the rocky coast to be stranded within earshot of the ineluctable sound. Like the ancient Greek sailors, surfers are willing to risk everything once they find what calls to them. Perfect waves are our siren song and many a career, relationship, and bright future have been dashed to pieces on the rocks that front them.

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