“If I ever go looking for my heart’s desire again, I won’t look any further than my own backyard, because if it isn’t there, I never really lost it to begin with. “ Dorothy, from the film “The Wizard of Oz”
It’s no wonder just about every surfer on earth comes to Bali looking for their heart’s desire. Just take a look at our backyard. Waves, waves, waves. Then close your eyes and imagine what it is like for some guy on the East Coast of the United States, snow up to his knees, blown out, tiny, arctic cold dribblers struggling in at his local beach. Or imagine the same surfer, in the parking lot of the same local beach, a sweltering hot, damp summer day, a brutal sun, an even more brutal continental shelf, the ocean as flat as a pancake, not one single wave to ride for a thousand miles. Not even a hope of one.